Author Topic: David's Shutter Bug Club  (Read 502264 times)

Offline David In Indy

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #90 on: January 09, 2008, 09:18:48 pm »



Kerry, that picture is beautiful! Do you remember what camera settings you used when you shot this image? It looks like you had your camera handy at just the right time. Those sunrays often don't last very long and they are always so pretty. I always think of Heaven when I see a picture like this!

Thanks for posting it Kerry! When do you think you'll take your camera out on the streets of Sydney and take some pictures? I hope you do. I'd love to see them. I know there is a lot of beautiful architecture in Sydney, and some beautiful parks and gardens too. Maybe you could take some pictures? *hint* *hint*. I don't mean to pressure you Kerry, but I have a feeling you would take some wonderful pictures and I'd really like to see them! :D

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Offline Kerry

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #91 on: January 09, 2008, 11:26:50 pm »
Kerry, that picture is beautiful! Do you remember what camera settings you used when you shot this image? It looks like you had your camera handy at just the right time. Those sunrays often don't last very long and they are always so pretty. I always think of Heaven when I see a picture like this!

Thanks for posting it Kerry! When do you think you'll take your camera out on the streets of Sydney and take some pictures? I hope you do. I'd love to see them. I know there is a lot of beautiful architecture in Sydney, and some beautiful parks and gardens too. Maybe you could take some pictures? *hint* *hint*. I don't mean to pressure you Kerry, but I have a feeling you would take some wonderful pictures and I'd really like to see them! :D

I'm glad you liked it, David. Though I am not a professional, I can tell you with absolute certainty what the setting for this pic was - it was Auto!!! I never move the setting off Auto! Up until now, that is! You have given me the encouragement to experiment. However, having said that, I'm not sure that I'll have the courage to do so! I'm such a chicken! And besides, my cute little Olympus takes such beautiful pics on Auto. The only setting that I have manually changed is to engage the red-eye filter. I must read the manual to see what settings I should use to take night pics. I'd be interested in that.

The story behind the sunbeam picture is that I noticed a storm was coming in fast from the west and I could see a couple of sunbeams here and there, but nothing dramatic enough to photograph. So I got my camera out, just incase more sunbeams appeared. And they did, so I photographed them - on Auto! I actually took lots of pics, and deleted the rest! Such pics always remind me of Heaven too, David.

Since reading your recently posted list of photography tips, David, I have taken to carrying my camera with me (also a bottle of vodka - not that I needed much encouragement to do that!!! [joke!]). I took a couple of pics here at work yesterday. We have quite a nice view of the city and Harbour Bridge, as seen through the trees of the leafy North Shore. I'll post a couple of the pics when I get home tonight. I am very pleased with one in particular.

I would be pleased to take some pics of Sydney for you, David, though, they may not necessarily be of the subject matter you might expect. Alas, there probably won't be many pictures of monuments and opera houses. I am more interested in intimate, atmospheric subject matter, such as sunsets, sunbeams and rain. Having said that, however, certainly, my pics will be taken in Sydney, so you'll probably get glimpses of the city in the process.

I would love to see lots of pics posted from my fellow BetterMostians!  :D
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Offline David In Indy

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #92 on: January 09, 2008, 11:33:06 pm »
Photography and Camera FAQ
What is it? And what does it do?


I'll try to keep this FAQ in alphabetical order. I'll TRY to keep this FAQ in alphabetical order! :laugh:




35mm Equivalence - The zoom range of a digital camera's lens is often quoted as equivalent to a 35mm camera, so a typical wide-angle to short telephoto 3x zoom would be 35-105mm.

Aperture - The main image lens has an iris built into it which opens wider in low lighting conditions to let through more light.

Aperture Priority - This exposure mode allows you to set the required aperture of the lens and adjusts the shutter speed for the correct exposure.

Artifact - Most often attributed to JPEG compression, artifacts are unwanted attributes that degrade picture quality, such as jagged edges on straight lines.

Auto-bracketing - The camera is set to take a series of exposures, allowing you to choose the most successful at a later stage.

Backlit - A backlit subject, like somebody with their back to the sun, causes exposure problems since their face is in the shadow. A fill flash is required for a balanced exposure.

Bitmap - This image is made up from a large grid of tiny dots or pixels, each of which has its own required brightness and color.

Blooming - See "Fringing"

Burst Mode - Sometimes called Continuous mode, this enables several shots to be taken in quick succession at a faster rate than Single-frame mode, and is measured in frames per second (fps).

CCD - The heart of the camera is the Charge Couple Device (CCD), a chip that converts light into a digital signal. Its surface is divided up into tiny squares (pixels), each of which records one small segment of an image. The more pixels the CCD has, the more detail it can record. Higher resolutions add to the cost of a digital camera and also increase the amount of data the camera has to store. You will always be limited by the maximum resolution of your CCD. At 640x480, for instance, images larger than a snapshot will be of poor quality.

CMYK - Unlike RGB, printed pictures from an inkjet printer are made up of CMYK - the colors Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and Black. Many newer printers use six colors - and some even use eight - adding photo cyan and photo magenta to the mix. Without these, there are problems with certain shades of blue and green that aren't in the CMYK spectrum.

Compact Flash - This is one of the most popular memory cards available, and allows many photos to be stored and then transferred on interchangeable, removable media. Other popular types of cards include SD, Memory Stick, MMC and MicroDrive.

Compression - Compression comes in two forms. The first preserves accuracy, but doesn't save much space; the other called "lossy" compression (and used in digital cameras) saves space but at the expense of image information. This isn't as bad as it sounds because the eye doesn't actually see 16 million colors a digital camera can record. During lossy compression, the camera scans the image, looking for similar pixels and bands them together. The more compression, the more pixels are approximated to the same color, until they start to form bands (hence the word "banding").

Depth of Field - Depth of field describes the range at which any subject can maintain its sharpness, and is determined by three key factors: the size of the lens opening (aperture), the distance between the camera and the subject, and the focal length of your lens. In certain circumstances, the depth of field becomes greater when the size of the lens aperture decreases, the distance from the lens to the subject increases, or the focal length of the lens decreases.

Digital Zoom - Digital zooms and digital magnification generate less sharp images because the new zoomed image is interpolated, rather than genuinely zoomed.

Electronic Viewfinder - These are typically found on more expensive digital cameras, and are a smaller version of the LCD back panel. Low refresh rates can cause problems when panning to cover moving objects.

Exposure Compensation - An override setting which forces the exposure to be slightly shorter or longer than the camera would set automatically.This allows for a forced under or over exposure of the scene, and can be used in tricky lighting.

Fill Flash - This is a low level flash and is primarily used to fill in the shadows of a backlit scene, or to make a foreground object stand out from the back drop.

Focal Length - The focal length of the lens is the distance from the lens to the sensor when focused on infinity. The greater this number, the more powerful the magnification, and the smaller the angle of view.

Fringing - Light captured by a CCD/CMOS sensor is converted into an electrical charge stored on individual pixels. When the limit each pixel can store is reached, it becomes saturated and leaks some charge onto surrounding pixels. This effect which, visually is similar to overexposure, is called fringing or blooming.

Hue - The hue of a color defines its place on the color spectrum. It's often given as a numerical value in image editing packages for easy adjustment of colors.

Image Stabilization - A system in which the lens will send a corrective signal to the camera's CCD when excessive shake is detected, and in turn helps to reduce image blur in photos. Image Stabilization can either be optical or digital.

Interpolated - Software programs can enlarge image resolution beyond the actual resolution by adding extra pixels through complex mathematical calculations.

JPEG - This is the most popular file format for digital photos. JPEG's allow variable compression on a sliding scale, so you can trade off quality against image size.

LCD - A camera's Liquid Crystal Display is a miniature full color screen for reviewing or composing shots, as well as giving a visual display of menu and exposure settings.

Macro - A macro lens can focus on objects at a very close range, providing a magnification effect.

Manual Metering - This exposure mode allows the photographer to set the camera's shutter speed or lens aperture while still taking advantage of the built-in light meter.

Megapixel - A megapixel is literally a million pixels or dots from which a digital photo is made up. A 4000x3000 pixel photo would be 12 megapixels.

Memory Stick - This is Sony's own proprietary form of removable memory card, and is used by many of Sony's digital cameras.

Metering - Choosing the right exposure setting is critical for optimum quality, and metering is the process by which the camera works out this setting. Several methods are employed on most mid and high end cameras, including Evaluative, Center Weight Average and Spot metering.

Noise - Noise is the visual effect of pixel misinterpretation. It appears like film grain, and can occur on long exposures or with higher ISO settings and JPEG compression.

Optical Zoom - This is the maximum zoom range offered by the lens itself, without any help from the electronics built into the camera. (See Digital Zoom)

ppi - This is the number of pixels per inch. 300 ppi is considered to be the usual resolution for high quality prints. Changing the ppi of an image from 72 ppi (screen resolution) to 300 ppi alters the output size, not the number of total pixels in the image.

RAW - A high quality uncompressed file format sometimes used in more expensive digital cameras.

Resolution - In terms of digital cameras, the maximum resolution is the maximum image size that the camera can capture. This is measured in pixels. In printing, the resolution is a measure of the number of individual dots which the printer can fit into one inch. (see PPi)

RGB - All colors are made up from Red, Green and Blue, so devices which transmit light, like televisions and computer screens, work from these primary colors. For colors used in printing, see CMYK for more information.

Saturation - Also known as color purity, this describes how rich and vivid the tones within an image are. Saturated colors contain high proportions of primary colors, while desaturated colors are weak and washed out.

Scene Modes - Most digital cameras have scene modes such as Portrait, Sport and Landscape. These adjust the exposure for greater depth of field, faster shutter speeds and so on, according to certain preset settings and they can be particularly helpful to beginners.

Shutter Priority - This lets the photographer set the required shutter speed and the camera then adjusts the lens aperture for the correct exposure.

Shutter Speed - This is the time the shutter is open, allowing light to fall on the CCD. For example, when using a larger lens aperture, or in bright conditions, a faster shutter speed will prevent over exposure.

SLR - A Single Lens Reflex camera is one in which the image in the viewfinder is taken through the lens, giving an accurate rendering of the picture to be taken. Only those digital cameras which reflect the image formed in a lens directly into a glass pentaprism type viewfinder and with interchangeable lenses, are known as SLRs.

SmartMedia - A once popular memory card type. They're thin and light, but are more fragile than CF cards, have a lower maximum capacity and have mostly been phased out of use by amateur photographers.

Telephoto Lens - Lenses with long focal lengths which produce a telescopic effect for magnifying distant objects, appearing to bring them nearer.

TIFF - A high quality image file format that usually works without compression, though lossless compression is also possible. It is superior in quality to JPEG, but produces much bigger file sizes.

TTL Metering - A meter built into the camera that determines the exposure for the scene by reading the light that passes through the lens.

TWAIN - Meaning: Toolkit Without An Interesting Name - this is an industry standard program that runs between scanners, printers and applications to ensure universal compatibility.

Unsharp Mask - This filter sharpens up slightly blurred images, making edges stand out much better without interferring too much with areas of low contrast.

USB - Much faster than older serial connections, the Universal Serial Bus is ideal for downloading photos from your camera to your PC. Better still, the USB 2.0 standards is around 40 times faster than USB 1.1 and is pretty much the industry standard today.

White Balance - This refers to a system of color correction that the camera uses to deal with difficult lighting conditions and color casts. This can be done automatically or manually.

Wide Angle Lens - Fits much more of a scene into the captured image, makes objects look further away and provides greater depth of field.

Zoom Lens - A variable focal length lens, most commonly with a 3:1 ratio (for example 35 - 105mm). The angle of view and magnification levels alter as the focal length varies.


I hope this helps explain some things for you! :D










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Offline David In Indy

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #93 on: January 09, 2008, 11:40:40 pm »
I'm glad you liked it, David. Though I am not a professional, I can tell you with absolute certainty what the setting for this pic was - it was Auto!!! I never move the setting off Auto! Up until now, that is! You have given me the encouragement to experiment. However, having said that, I'm not sure that I'll have the courage to do so! I'm such a chicken! And besides, my cute little Olympus takes such beautiful pics on Auto. The only setting that I have manually changed is to engage the red-eye filter. I must read the manual to see what settings I should use to take night pics. I'd be interested in that.

The story behind the sunbeam picture is that I noticed a storm was coming in fast from the west and I could see a couple of sunbeams here and there, but nothing dramatic enough to photograph. So I got my camera out, just incase more sunbeams appeared. And they did, so I photographed them - on Auto! I actually took lots of pics, and deleted the rest! Such pics always remind me of Heaven too, David.

Since reading your recently posted list of photography tips, David, I have taken to carrying my camera with me (also a bottle of vodka - not that I needed much encouragement to do that!!! [joke!]). I took a couple of pics here at work yesterday. We have quite a nice view of the city and Harbour Bridge, as seen through the trees of the leafy North Shore. I'll post a couple of the pics when I get home tonight. I am very pleased with one in particular.

I would be pleased to take some pics of Sydney for you, David, though, they may not necessarily be of the subject matter you might expect. Alas, there probably won't be many pictures of monuments and opera houses. I am more interested in intimate, atmospheric subject matter, such as sunsets, sunbeams and rain. Having said that, however, certainly, my pics will be taken in Sydney, so you'll probably get glimpses of the city in the process.

I would love to see lots of pics posted from my fellow BetterMostians!  :D



Anything you decide to post Kerry will be greatly appreciated! And I'm glad my tips post is helping you! I just posted a FAQ sheet and I hope it helps you as well.

But you really should take your camera off the Auto mode, at least every ONCE in a while!! Your camera has so many nice features, and you really aren't using them if the camera is set to auto. Your camera does take beautiful pictures in auto, but you have the ability and the tools on your camera to get very creative if you want to. Don't worry. You won't hurt the camera by using some of the manual settings, and if the picture doesn't turn out, delete it and try again. Try pushing buttons, flipping switches and turning dials and see what you come up with! Experiment a little, okay? It's fun!! :)

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Offline Kerry

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #94 on: January 10, 2008, 12:12:30 am »

Anything you decide to post Kerry will be greatly appreciated! And I'm glad my tips post is helping you! I just posted a FAQ sheet and I hope it helps you as well.

But you really should take your camera off the Auto mode, at least every ONCE in a while!! Your camera has so many nice features, and you really aren't using them if the camera is set to auto. Your camera does take beautiful pictures in auto, but you have the ability and the tools on your camera to get very creative if you want to. Don't worry. You won't hurt the camera by using some of the manual settings, and if the picture doesn't turn out, delete it and try again. Try pushing buttons, flipping switches and turning dials and see what you come up with! Experiment a little, okay? It's fun!! :)

Phew, that makes me sooo nervous, David. I've never been a thrill seeker haha!  ::)

Serious question - If I should press all the buttons and change all the settings, how do I get it back to the default auto setting? Will it simply revert to auto automatically when next I turn it on? Or will I be stuck with all the exotic, experimental settings I've manually keyed in? Makes me nervous just thinking about not being able to get back to my tried and tested, good ol' reliable auto setting.  ???
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Offline David In Indy

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #95 on: January 10, 2008, 12:28:13 am »
Hi Kerry!

The auto settings on your camera are variable. They change every time you take a picture. Adjusting your camera in the manual or program mode will not have any effect on the auto mode whatsoever. You may want to check your owners manual to be sure, but I've never seen or heard of a camera where this would be a problem.

And if you are worried about things like exposure compensation or white balance, just set them back to zero (or on some cameras, exposure compensation and white balance have an auto setting). But when you shoot pictures with your camera in auto mode, there is no fixed aperture and shutter speed settings, since the camera must change those settings based on the lighting conditions.

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Offline Kerry

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #96 on: January 10, 2008, 12:38:52 am »
Hi Kerry!

The auto settings on your camera are variable. They change every time you take a picture. Adjusting your camera in the manual or program mode will not have any effect on the auto mode whatsoever. You may want to check your owners manual to be sure, but I've never seen or heard of a camera where this would be a problem.

And if you are worried about things like exposure compensation or white balance, just set them back to zero (or on some cameras, exposure compensation and white balance have an auto setting). But when you shoot pictures with your camera in auto mode, there is no fixed aperture and shutter speed settings, since the camera must change those settings based on the lighting conditions.

Thanx David, you're a gem! I feel empowered with all this knowledge!  :D
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Offline underdown

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #97 on: January 10, 2008, 07:26:25 am »
Thanx David, you're a gem! I feel empowered with all this knowledge!  :D

Well, my thanx too, David. I'd feel empowered, also, except that I'm hopeless with instructions, and manuals, and, and ... 'white balance' ?  ???
Like you, Kerry, I leave my camera on Auto. The only time I play around with it is for Macro, Video, Flash (sometimes), and Self Timer. Otherwise it's 'point and shoot'. Unfortunately, I don't have stabilisation (it's an older FinePix S5000).
The main problems I have are ... portraits in poor or artificial light without flash tend to leave the subject (when zoomed on screen) looking rather leprous, with dark spots and small lumps all over. ... the camera sometimes sets itself (or is accidentally set) to low res (1M). When I take pics on high res (6M) the photo file on sreen usually drops to around one and a half Mb.
I assume that's because it is what the computer screen can handle, but I'm not sure. When I edit and post to Photobucket, at the size suitable for BM posts, they are smaller in file size anyway, so I guess it doesn't matter (?).

I had a look for pics of Sydney to post, but found that I have very few of those. Maybe it would be an idea to get out and about with a bottle of something (does that help, Kerry?) and start snapping. Perhaps, Kerry, we could split the brief? I can take pics of things other than clouds, sunbeams and such-like. I'm rather fond of beaches, animals and people, but could include some architecture, maybe.

Below is a pic taken near Melbourne. (I'm off to Melbourne in a couple of weeks for the long weekend ... that has some good architecture etc.).
It is yet another 'sunbeams and clouds', but is one of my favourites, so just thought I'd drop it in.


Offline underdown

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #98 on: January 10, 2008, 07:29:58 am »

Another near Melbourne. Gum trees in the Dandenong Ranges. And another favourite.

Offline underdown

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #99 on: January 10, 2008, 07:33:41 am »

Rododenrons, also in the Dandenongs.