Author Topic: David's Shutter Bug Club  (Read 497096 times)

injest

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #30 on: January 05, 2008, 12:32:36 am »
Absolutely!!! That would be fun, wouldn't it?

ok! I will...you too. Ok??

Offline David In Indy

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #31 on: January 05, 2008, 01:49:00 am »
I'll do it too Jess. :)

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Offline David In Indy

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #32 on: January 05, 2008, 01:57:14 am »
Here is another angel picture. This is the very same subject as in the previous photo, but this time I lowered the ISO from 800 to 400. Notice how much image noise was eliminated by using a lower ISO. In lowering the ISO however, I also had to slow down the shutter speed to compensate for the lower ISO setting and a narrower aperture. I decided to pull back a bit more this time to photograph the glass case in addition to the angel. In doing so, I needed to add depth of field; not much, just a little. With an aperture of f/5.6 and a low ISO, I had to set the shutter speed to 4 seconds. This is a long exposure time, but it helped to eliminate much of the noise that was present in the previous angel photo.

Edit: There is still a problem with fringing however. This continues to be an issue with many digital cameras, including Canon's A and G Series cameras. Canon managed to correct much of this fringing problem with the release of its G7 camera and pefected it even more with the introduction of the G9. But the problem persists. Much of the fringing around the angel in this photo is caused by light refraction, and therefore not any fault of the camera.

Conditions: Dark
Camera Equipment: Canon PowerShot G9
Camera Mode: Manual
Aperture: f/5.6
Shutter Speed: 4 seconds
White Balance: Auto
Light Meter: Spot
Exposure Compensation Value: 0
ISO: 400
Flash: Off




« Last Edit: January 05, 2008, 03:32:50 am by David »
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Offline David In Indy

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #33 on: January 05, 2008, 02:27:20 am »
Sand Dollars On A Florida Beach

Use your macro setting to pull in a lot of detail.

Conditions: Bright
Camera Equipment: Canon PowerShot G9
Camera Mode: Shutter Priority
Aperture: f/7.1
Shutter Speed: 1/60
White Balance: Custom
Light Meter: Evaluative
Exposure Compensation Value: 0
ISO: 200
Flash: Off





You can sometimes use your macro setting to fool people too. If you thought that photo was really a beach scene in Florida, take a look below....









..................





















................................








.................................

Well, the sand and the sand dollars really are from Florida. But it was photographed in a jar right here in Indiana! ;)

Conditions: Bright
Camera Equipment: Canon PowerShot G9
Camera Mode: Shutter Priority
Aperture: f/8.0
Shutter Speed: 1/30
White Balance: Custom
Light Meter: Evaluative
Exposure Compensation Value: +1/3
ISO: 200
Flash: Off





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Offline David In Indy

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #34 on: January 05, 2008, 03:04:30 am »
You can sometimes make an otherwise boring photo.........


Conditions: Dim Incadescent
Camera Equipment: Canon PowerShot G9
Camera Mode: Program
Aperture: f/11
Shutter Speed: 1/60
White Balance: Auto
Light Meter: Center Weight Average
Exposure Compensation Value: 0
ISO: 200
Flash: Low Burst, Soft Bounce





.......a bit more interesting by photographing the subject at their eye level. This is especially important when photographing children and pets. People want to see faces, not the top of heads!!


Conditions: Dim Incadescent
Camera Equipment: Canon PowerShot G9
Camera Mode: Manual
Aperture: f/4.1
Shutter Speed: 1/8
White Balance: Custom
Light Meter: Center Weight Average
Exposure Compensation Value: + 2/3
ISO: 1600
Flash: Off
Other: Image Stabilization






(Sorry about the noise. I had to use a higher ISO setting. I wished to maintain depth of field, but the flash was washing out the image too much so I turned it off.)









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Offline David In Indy

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #35 on: January 05, 2008, 04:00:58 am »
Has this ever happened to you? You're at a concert or night sporting event, you aim your camera, the flash fires and the only thing you end up with is the back of the people several rows in front of you. No visable concert. No nighttime football or soccer game. Just the back of a bunch of heads. People you don't even know.




Conditions: Pitch Dark
Camera Equipment: Canon PowerShot G9
Camera Mode: Program
Aperture: f/4.1
Shutter Speed: 1/60
White Balance: Auto
Light Meter: Center Weight Average
Exposure Compensation Value: 0
ISO: 400
Flash: Forced




Okay. So we'll improvise. I'm at my Dad's house tonight!  :laugh:

Pretend the bucket is the back of somebody's head and the subject is somewhere out there in the darkness.

Turn your flashes OFF ya'll!! It won't do you any good. Your camera's built-in flash has an effective range of only 10-20 feet; just enough to properly photograph the bald man's head six rows in front of you. If the concert or sporting event is well illuminated, you don't even need your flash. If the subject is more than 20 feet in front of you the flash will be absolutely useless. TURN IT OFF!!! For every flash that fires during a concert or night time sporting event is a disappointing and disastrous photo waiting to be developed.

Many cameras come with a "concert" or "Night Action" scene mode. If your camera has one, USE it! If it doesn't....

1. Turn your flash OFF.

2. Cradle your camera in the palm of your left hand.

3. Brace the elbow of your left arm against your chest (in doing so you are creating a makeshift tripod).

4. Take a breath and hold it.

5. Carefully and smoothly press down on the shutter button.

Suggested camera settings if your camera doesn't have a scene mode for concerts or night time sporting events:

Camera Mode: Manual

Aperture: f/4.0 - 5.6 (or as wide as an F stop of 2.0 if you aren't too worried about depth of field in your photo)

Shutter Speed: 1/8 - 1/4 (1/2 - 1 second if your subject is not very well illuminated)

Exposure Compensation Value: +1/3 to 1

Image Stabilization (if available): ON/Continuous

ISO: 400 - 600

Flash: OFF

If your camera has a "fireworks" or similar scene mode, this may work for concerts and night time sporting events. Just make sure your flash is off, and you set the camera for a slower shutter speed.

Edit: Slow shutter speeds are always detrimental when photographing concerts and other night time/dark lighting events. Opening up your aperture and forfeiting depth of field might be a good trade off to avoid image blur. Each camera handles these difficult situations differently. Explore your camera's settings beforehand for best results.

« Last Edit: January 05, 2008, 05:44:20 am by David »
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injest

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #36 on: January 05, 2008, 07:03:46 am »
ok depth of field....that is controlled by the aperture...and the higher the aperature number the deeper the field?

injest

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #37 on: January 05, 2008, 03:52:51 pm »
ok I took 500 pics of the cat. this is the only one that came out half decent...



My Colors Mode   Off
Tv (Shutter Speed)   1/125
Av (Aperture Value)   5.5
Light Metering   Evaluative
ISO Speed   80
Lens   5.8 - 23.2 mm
Focal Length   23.2 mm
Flash Type   Built-In Flash
Shutter curtain sync   1st-curtain
White Balance   Day Light
Drive Mode   Single-frame shooting

Offline David In Indy

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #38 on: January 06, 2008, 02:55:14 am »
That's a beautiful kitty picture Jess!! I love how you took the picture from the animal's level, rather than hover above him and aim the camera down. Too many people take pictures of their pets like that. Coming down to eye level with the pet allows people to feel a part of the pet's world.

First curtain sync is the default flash setting of most cameras, even if the manufacturer doesn't refer to it as "first curtain". First curtain simply means the flash fires immediately after the shutter opens. Some cameras come with a second curtain setting. Second curtain sets the flash to fire just before the shutter closes. Second curtain works well as a fill flash because most of the image has already been exposed before the flash fires. Second curtain will help to eliminate shadowing (at medium or full burst) or some shadowing (at low burst) when taking pictures in bright situations. I often use second curtain during the daytime to rid the photo of unwanted shadows.  The next time you photograph your animals indoors, or outdoors during the daytime, you may wish to play around with first and second curtain sync. Second curtain will also produce interesting effects at night too.

This is a beautiful picture of your cat Jess. I love black cats. Their eyes always seem to glow against their dark fur. How did you get the animal to look slightly away from the camera? Did you hold the camera out to the side? Or was the cat simply not interested? Thanks for posting the pic!! :)

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Offline Front-Ranger

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Re: David's Shutter Bug Club
« Reply #39 on: January 06, 2008, 02:58:51 am »
"chewing gum and duct tape"