Author Topic: THE MARIT ALLEN COLLECTION  (Read 10463 times)

Offline BayCityJohn

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THE MARIT ALLEN COLLECTION
« on: August 27, 2009, 05:49:00 pm »
THE MARIT ALLEN COLLECTION



Auction: Tuesday 15th September at 10.30am

Marit Allen was an extraordinary person. In her lifetime she managed to have two extremely successful but very different careers but both linked by her love of dress – firstly as a fashion journalist and Vogue editor in the groovy London of the ‘Swinging Sixties’ and latterly as a world renowned film costume designer. Those who knew her and worked with her also commented on her generosity of spirit and kindness – rarely found traits in the competitive worlds of fashion and film.
 
Marit was born in Cheshire in 1941 of an English father and Norwegian mother. She always had a passion for fashion magazines and after school and a brief period studying in France she moved to London determined to pursue her ambitions as a fashion journalist. She lobbied Queen magazine until she gained an interview with the owner Jocelyn Stevens. Marit’s unique personal style always turned heads with her impish, gamine figure, large owl-like specs (at a time when most people would rather squint myopically than ruin their look by wearing them) and short skirts. She looked the part – she got the part. He awarded her the post of fashion assistant under Beatrix Miller for the meagre sum of £5 a week (apparently one was expected to have a personal income to supplement this). Reflecting the new interest and enthusiasm for youth that were evident everywhere she created the "About Twenty" pages with Caterine Milinaire. This was unlike anything previously seen in Queen. Marit was so good that in 1963 when Beatrix moved to Vogue she took Marit with her.
 
In another departure from tradition, Marit the editor became Marit the model. Both David Bailey and Norman Parkinson liked to photograph her. The April 1st 1964 issue introduces the new young editor to her readers with a photo shoot by David Bailey, entitled ‘Young Idea All Dolled Up, where he shot her with and without her trademark specs. She now earned the princely sum of £25 per week and her remit was to concentrate on fashions for the younger Vogue readers. She developed the “Young Ideas” pages which she used to promote new, emerging talents on the fashion scene – designers, photographers and models. She championed the careers of people such as Sally Tuffin and Marion Foale, Biba, Zandra Rhodes, Bill Gibb, Mary Quant, John Bates, David Bailey, Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy. Marit is credited with coming up with the idea of placing Twiggy on the mantelpiece of a country house for one of Cecil Beaton’s most iconic shots of the sixties.


 
Marit’s personal wardrobe from the 1960s-1990s is included in this auction and these designers and photographers are well represented. The clothes range from the John Bates futuristic silver vinyl and white cotton wedding ensemble she wore when she married film producer Sandy Lieberson in 1966, through the hippy chic 70s (her three children were also dressed in the latest Biba fashions see lot 43) to Alaia of the 80s and Jean Paul Gaultier, Comme des Garcons and Prada of the 90s. The latter part of the auction is devoted to costume, accessories, fabrics and trimmings used and collected for her second career as film costume designer. There is also an extensive library of dress-related and photographic books which are useful to both fashion historians, costumiers and film buffs alike.

In November 2007 she died of a brain aneurism whilst working in Australia with the director George Miller on a new film, “Justice League of America”. After numerous nominations for Emmys, Baftas and Oscars for her work she finally was awarded a BAFTA and also a Cesar for the best costume designs for `La Vie en Rose’ in 2008, a year after her death.


http://www.kerrytaylorauctions.com/currentsale.php

LOT NUMBER: 79

Sale Name THE MARIT ALLEN COLLECTION     

Item Description:

A group of Western/Cowboy style shirts, mainly modern, approx 19, mainly cotton, some with embroidered detailing, chest sizes mainly 96-102cm, 38-40in (qty) Marit bought the majority of these shirts when designing and making the costumes for Brokeback Mountain" in 2005."









http://www.kerrytaylorauctions.com/sales/detail.php?lotid=10669

Offline Monika

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Re: THE MARIT ALLEN COLLECTION
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2009, 03:50:38 am »
that´s very cool. I would love to buy them all.

It would have been interesting to have known more about Allen´s thought on creating the costumes for Brokeback.

Offline BayCityJohn

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Re: THE MARIT ALLEN COLLECTION
« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2009, 01:44:54 pm »
Quote
She arrived for the first meeting for Brokeback with a book of Richard Avedon's portraits of the west from the 1960s to the 1980s, from which she learned its subtle dress codes. It took obscure sourcing and severe scouring to put together and break apart the apparently simple wool jackets and fake fleece linings, and keep within costs.
http://www.guardian.co.uk/news/2007/dec/01/guardianobituaries.obituaries

LOT NUMBER: 168

Sale Name THE MARIT ALLEN COLLECTION 

   

Item Description:

A collection of books relating to American photography and costume, including ' Avedon at Work in the American West' by Laura Wilson; 'Dressed for the Photographer' by Joan Severa; 'An American Century of Photography' The Hallmark Photographic Collection, (7)

http://www.kerrytaylorauctions.com/sales/detail.php?lotid=10758

Offline BayCityJohn

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Re: THE MARIT ALLEN COLLECTION
« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2009, 02:21:43 pm »
that´s very cool. I would love to buy them all.

It would have been interesting to have known more about Allen´s thought on creating the costumes for Brokeback.


"I think the 80's did a lot of damage to Western wear," said Marit Allen, the costume designer of "Brokeback Mountain." "The clothes went very flamboyant. They really lost the essence of it, which is in that trim, tight fit. If you think of Steve McQueen in the 60's in his Western wear, he was very lean and mean. The shirts had become very blousy, and there shouldn't be anything blousy about it."

http://www.rockmount.com/pressclippings.htm

Offline ifyoucantfixit

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Re: THE MARIT ALLEN COLLECTION
« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2009, 05:45:12 pm »


      What a spectacular article you have given us here John.  I personally thank you very much for this.



     Beautiful mind

Offline Ellemeno

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Re: THE MARIT ALLEN COLLECTION
« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2009, 01:01:15 pm »
Great finds, John, thanks!  So amazing that the look on Ennis and Jack is connected to Mary Quant and Biba, super-swinging Carnaby Street era.

Offline Front-Ranger

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Re: THE MARIT ALLEN COLLECTION
« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2019, 10:50:23 am »
Bumping a great topic started by Bay City John.  :-*
May 2019 be better for us all.